Tsunami Squad I was spellbound. The waves were big but the water was smooth, and the energy pulsed like the earth’s heartbeat. Out beyond the rolling walls of a giant shore break that looked to me like house-sized barriers to even getting out there to face the waves behind them, a knot of young men and one or two women sat casually, each waiting for their turn to dice with … [Read more...]
LOMBOK WET SEASON 2021
Lombok flooded By Ben Simon Smith The wet season really arrived in Bali this year. The storms turned up in December, and it feels like it has been raining every day since. You might as well be rolling a dice if you need to head out on your scooter. Chances are you will be desperately pulling on a rain coat, or hiding miserably under a villa cornice, as towering grey banks … [Read more...]
I am a surfer and that means.. A quick story from our resident writer Nick Bruechle
I’m a surfer and that means… I’m a local. If you come out at my spot, I’ll paddle straight past you to the inside every time and drop in on you if you somehow get to the inside. If you ever have the temerity to complain, I’ll lecture you about respect. Experimenting with different surf-craft is kind of my thing. I always borrow my mates’ new boards. Saying, or even … [Read more...]
Belief. another short story from the master Nick Bruechle
BELIEF There are days on surf trips when no surfing gets done. The swell disappears or the onshore comes up, or, as in the case of the trip I’m thinking of, both. We were huddled around in our big ‘kitchen’ tent several hundred kilometres from the nearest town, hiding from the vicious westerly, which was whipping squalls of red dust and debris around the camp, occasionally … [Read more...]
“We three” a short story from Nick Bruechle
We threeBy, Nick [email protected] I found her at Balangan.I’d sailed up the Western Australian coast on the 67 foot yacht I’d ‘liberated’, stopping at every portto stock up and search for other survivors. Everywhere I went I was met with the stench of death andthe howl of loneliness, and found no other living person. The only thing that kept me sane was … [Read more...]
GETTING THERE IS HALF THE FUN, RIGHT ! a short story by Ben Simons
SUMBAWA 2002 Getting there is half the fun, right. by Ben Simons It was mid year back in 2002. The days were getting steadily shorter. The mornings becoming both fresh and frigid. Booties were a must for the dawny surfs along the coastline at home. Winter was settling in. My uneasy relationship with the cold continued. The extra size and push in the swell would always be … [Read more...]
The Mentawais – Reflections from a first trip by Ben Simons
I had been travelling and surfing in Indonesia for many years but hadn't yet made it to the Mentawais. The web clips of Lances right and Kandui's were obviously hard to ignore. But the talk of the crowds along with the cost had continued to put me off. At one stage I did look at spending twelve nights on a slick charter boat. I also thought about a two week ritzy resort … [Read more...]
When the horizon goes black.. a short story by Nick Bruechle
When the horizon goes black, a short story Taken from, The Surfer Alone: A Quiver of Surf Stories·Tuesday, June 12, 2018 by Nick Bruechle You know the feeling. It’s pretty big, and you’re probably somewhere to the right of your comfort zone already, but coping. You’ve been telling yourself that fear can be conquered. That your only real enemies are hesitation and lack of … [Read more...]
A short story by Louise Frederikke Kofoed-Dam
Echo Beach and I (Bali 2017) In hale, ex-hale. I can taste the salt on the tip of my tongue. The air is sticky, yet somehow also sweet and full of flavor. I run my hand through the rough black sand, sticking like glitter to my fingers. In attempt to find wet and cold sand, I dig my ties into the bone dry, fuming sand, slightly burning my toes in the process. There’s a … [Read more...]
The Ride… What could have happened. a short story by Nick Bruechle
The Ride What could have happened. It felt like he was flying. The wind was whipping through his hair at warp speed, and the drops of spray being torn off the face were tiny stinging bullets. The thing stood up in front of him like the blade of an impossibly wide bulldozer, steel grey-green and curling, curling, curling all down the line. Race me, it said, and Kade needed … [Read more...]
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