Balangan is located down towards the southern peninsula, it used to be a hard place to find but now there is a sealed road that will just about take you all the way in there. The reef is right infront of the beach and only a short paddle out required.
Wet/Dry Season
Dry Season – April/October
Best Swell Direction
South
Best Size
4-8ft
Best Winds
SE Tradewinds
Crowd Factor
Crowds were never a worry at Balangan before the new road went in, but now with the easy access, it is starting to get more and more surfers around there. The wave itself is very fast and hollow best on the mid to high tide.
Location
I surfed Balangan in 1981 with 2 x mates we arrived by boat, not a soul around, the place was deserted, obviously we surfed there for about 1.5 hrs by ourselves, about the 4ft mark, i remember the beach being totally untouched, in those days nobody i dont think knew about dreamland or bingin. Have you heard of anyone sufing the place prior to this ???
Never surfed balangan before..wanted to know how shallow is the reef there?
Hey Ham, Balangan can be surfed on most tides, but like all the reefs mid to hight would be most suited. but on its day it can produce as good as anywhere. Its a beautiful place, go a see for yourself before its all gone.
G`day Nat,
1981 was the first year I surfed Bingin and because we had it to ourselves it was the first option whenever the swell kicked.The walk in was from behind what is now called Dreamland and was an all day affair with board carriers , provisions etc.The Queensland mates I was with were put onto it by another Queenslander by the name of Wayne McKewen.Surfed it twice with two other guys during that two month period , Sydney guys Vic Levert (first mindblowing pigdogin I`d seen) and a red hot kneelo by the name of Ken Horton (full vertical backhand stance)The following year we started surfing Immpossibles as Bingin was now on everybodies lips.Kept surfing it through the 80`s though less and less as you know it has a very small takeoff spot and 4 or 5 guys who can surf is crowded.
Griz, good read, interesting that we hear about these places being surfed in the old days. Lets see if anyone picks up on our replies. I remember walking into ulu`s in 1980 surfing temples & being shedded on race tracks, still cary the scares. Long walk out then, and even a longer motor bike ride back to kuta, with blood dripping from the tiger stripes on your back. The only remedy and first aid kit was some BFI powder and a couple of bandaids in your backpack. All fond memories and good stories for the groms of today.
Thanks for the comments guys, I’ve only been here for the last 15yrs but I love hearing the stories about the early days !!! I bet Fly had some good ones… RIP
G`day Nat,Slim,
I was there in 80 as well (second trip)having returned from Nias for the first time.Did two visas in Nias (8 weeks) and the same in Bali.Jeez I`ll bet you must have been around somewhere at that time.Nothing between bemo corner and Padma except jungle.Padma and Jalan Rum Jungle were dirt tracks….please don`t get me started.Misses is at this moment sourcing flights as I speak,hello season number 28….what a delightful habit!
Slim you are right about Fly and his yarns,always willing and able to engage anyone within ear shot with his slant on the local surfing politics and identities,such was his passion for that and of course Bintang.The original Bali surf cowboy will be missed.
Good site, admin.
Hey boy`s, spot on, fond memories. First visited bali in 1979 stayed at a place called puspa beach inn, opposite the old cemetry in kuta just up from the markets, and is still there. We used to walk thru it to paddle out to kuta reef. In 1980 i came back for 3 months, must have passed each other. In 82 stayed at Ketut King Kongs place amongst the coconut trees in the back of kuta. Griz remember rum jungle well. Sorry mate guess what ? we are booked again, arrive in september.
hey guys, you should know that there are surfers out there who really respect our surf pioneers,but at the same time also want to be respected as freshmen to indo, like me. every sport or culture is relying on newcomers to keep going and progressing.It is nice to see no trashtalking on this site coz i’d like to see surfers stick more together and respect each other . we need lots of surfer to represent a united power against pollution and environmental issues.there have been many cases round the world where the big companies exploit and pollute our sea and beaches…these are the real oponents.so in my point of view we shouldn’t hassle each other over single waves and work much more together.more crowds should mean more people with the same love of the waves that we have …while surfing, i’d rather waste a wave than hurt someone. peace
Hi all. I last surfed Balangan in June 1997. Me and 4 mates had the whole place to ourselves. We were staying in the usual beach front five star warung run by a local lady and her small child. After a couple of days, of perfect surf and not a soul in sight, we awoke to find ourselves surrounded by soldiers all carrying fire arms. Shocked:- we certainly were!! Turns out this lady and her family had been told that they had to leave the beach, where they had lived all their lives, and be relocated in one of the towns. Well…she had different ideas. To our absolute amazement she came screaming from the back of the warung carrying a large machete slashing violently at the soldiers. It took a few of them to subdue her. I later spoke to one of the soldiers who informed me they were building a road to the beach, which meant any remaining locals had to be moved on. We were also told to leave as soon as the tide allowed. We then watched with sadness as the soldiers proceeded to burn all the warungs along the beach. During all of this, however, I had picked up my camera and had secretly taken a series of shots as the warungs were destroyed. Happy to put the pictures up, or send copies. We were probably the last guys to surf there while it was still quiet and only accessible via a very very long walk. It was great back in the 90’s, and must have been amazing in the 80’s. But even though it’s probably busy now, I’m sure it’s still amazing. JD.
Hey JD, yes bro I remember the soldiers kicking out all the locals from Balangan in ’97 or was it ’96 time flies. You could also drive into Balangan but only if you knew the road through a maze of dirt tracks. One of our friends was evicted from balangan and re-located to Jimburan. It’s a whole different ball game down at Balangan now after they pulled down the warungs at Dreamland which were mainly foreign backed. Pulled down to build a 17 hole golf course and resort. Looks like to me they are trying to re create Dreamland at Balangan. But Bali is changing every year, and the all mighty dollar seems to be dictating her future and it appears to be unstopable.
G’day wave hunters.
Balangan used to be a hidden secret. My first encounter was in 93 after a boat trip through the islands. Ulu’s was packed and a mate took me there talking it up about long rides with no crowds. Its now my favorite wave in the Bukit and Nyoman Suzie welcomes me back each year. Her family grows with each passing year.
Sad to see the area turning into resort style but the area has had its struggles during and after Suharto.
Low tide barrels at the point have left their mark but high tide speed lines are what bring me back each year.
Its still got its charm and lets hope it can keep it inspite of recent developments to the bay.
In regard to how shallow the reef is , as asked by Ham , its only shallow if you hit it. Ride the wave up high for speed or you will find yourself being outrun by the wall.
Treat others how you want to be treated both in the water and out. Respect the locals and enjoy good times with them. Make friends and see the smiles when you return.
Thanks for the site Slim , its my daily contact with paradise.
Loved hearing about everyones good times in Bali, first travelled there in 1976,used to paddle out to Kuta reef, 5 maybe 6 people out. Stayed in a losman for 50 cent a night with a thermos of boiled water and a couple of bananas, each new person that arrived was given the full lowdown on how the place worked by fellow surfers, it was your job to pass the info on when they left, what to do where to go and what not to do. Lent our boards to the local kids when we were too tired to surf or chat up the international tourists that came over from Sanour for the sunset. Budha sticks were A$1.00 and Magic Mushie restaurants were common, not that I was interested in that scene but you could sit at the end of the runway and watch the planes take off over you. Even took Slim some Multi-grain bread from Oz one trip,I’m 54 now and going back in Sept for the 16th time, staying in a bungalo on the beach in Kuta for a lot more than 50 cents, but I’m still riding a short board and if you ride a mal don’t take offence, anything you can get the thrill on is fine by me, so I hope that when you young guy’s see some old fart out there you might just let him have the odd wave every now and then, cause we don’t get up as fast or as deep as we used to but we do love it just as much. may you make as many happy memories as I have. Live the dream, Trev
Hey Trev !!! Well put mate, and I hope to catch ya up again next trip for some more multi grain, heh, heh.
Great read guys! I am 51 and did my first trip back in 1978. As a Grommet and first time overseas the place blew me away! I can still clearly remember going down the main drag to Legian from the airport to out Losman in the evening. The sounds, smells, people. I felt at home straight away.
I still go to bali on surf trips, but now my sons surf with me. They grew up surfing the place and also are in love with it. I am also lucky to have a wife that went to bali with when she was my girlfriend back when she was 19. She travels to Bali regulary for shopping fixes and to catch up with her Balinese friends. She sometimes does up to 3 trips a year. The boys love it! Surf trips with Mum!
Like Trev, I still ride shortboards. Good luck to the Mal riders, but I am not into them. My 5’10” is just a little thicker and wider these days!!
I have soem pics of Bali from the early days that my sons and younger mates froth over. No crowds, no roads into any spots much less the “secret” spots.
I too surfed Balangan not that long ago when there was no clear road in. Ulu had 90 guys out. Crazy. Snuck off to Balangan and surfed with my 4 mates and 2 locals. Unreal!
A 51 year old mate has just come back after a 2 month trip. We are palning a trip in August- September and another for a month next April May.
We are still as excited about going over now as we were when we first went 32 odd years ago! Got some great friends over there and will make more no doubt. Despite the influx of people it is still my favorite place in the world to travel to.
Note to everyone who goes there old and new. Respect the people and the place. The Balinese allow us to share their paradise. They are very good people and will go out of their way to help you if you take your manners away with you. I have some very old and dear friends in Bali and would hope to never hear a story about ignorant Aussies or anyone for that matter.
It’s a great place and hope everyone going over gets good waves.
Enjoy!!
Freddy
hey guys….
i’ve reallt enjoyed reading this thread. its hard to imagine bali in 80’s. bemo corner to padma still jungle?? an look at it now.i’ve been enjoyin indo for 12 years now an hope to for many more.thanx to the old pioneers pathing the way!!
Excellent stories guys, the memories come flooding back.
Good to see the older crew staying on short boards, hang in there as long as possible.
I first went in 83 & thought that was early until this may when I met a couple of older guys who surfed breaks that we thought were new.
Morry the masseur from Maroubra (thanks for sorting my back out) & Peter Lawrence are 73 veterans & still getting over there & having a go.
I love remembering the earlier trips, wish it was still the same.
It’s funny seeing the ulu kids that used to carry our boards, they are all mums & dads now.
I still go there & love it. Back in Oct with family for their first trip. Please keep posting stories old & new of surf & experiences.
Thanks to Baliwaves for the regular fix.
hey is balangan with in walking distance of impossibles . and is balangan still good around january ??
cheers
i first surfed balangan in 96 and went back in 97 remember when the army burnt the place down canny sad like.back then balangan was like a dream beach ,just amazing…..there was just a few warungs and a temple down the south of the beach,had some of the waves of my life there with all the boys from bournmouth i met in oz.been to indo 7 winters in the last 13 years and still amazing to surf but do most surfing at lakeys now ,balangan is very hit and miss in the wet season only really had it epic in the dry season…i miss it may be time to book a flight!!
regards geordie
Just got back from another great trip, about my 12th. Surfed Balangan identical to the picture attached to this link early one morning with 5 of us out. Hey Ham, no time for a take off bottom turn, beat that first section and you then get to race the section for a couple hundred metres. First surfed Bali in ’85. I remember sitting out at Bingin in the crowd of 7 and looking over towards Dreamland. I could see a big A frame peak in the middle of the beach but thought no one surfed it cause there was nothing over there. Check it out now. They’ve built a bloody big euro resort with a diamond shaped roof that glows multi coloured at night!!? Surfed Ullu’s for my first time at 10 to 12 foot. I asked the guy I was with where channel was to paddle out and he just laughed at me. Great experience but absolutely shitting myself. There were 5 of us out. The best though was getting Kuta Reef almost to myself at first light every morning for 2 weeks between 4 and 8 foot. Best wave on the island when it’s on!! Only hassle, and it’s happened in the last two trips was the attitude of the locals at Bingin. Stand up for yourself gentlemen, they get more than their share, they don’t deserve them all. Just a small blimp, everything else great, the people, the food, the weather, the Bintang and the waves. Bring on next year!!
these balangan stories bring back great old memories.in the early 80s we use to ride in along a track full of boulders,it was areally rough gravel road then a dirt track and about 500mt walk.never saw another surfer and was there often. mostly alone,go a bit scary sometimes,was sitting out there oneday nobody in sight 3to4 ft arvo glassoff and a big MF dugong popped up right beside me.sometimes you apreciate someone tosurf with
surfing balangan for years…the more you surf it…the lower tide you prefer. mid to high tide the wave is too fat i think. low tide its more hollow and with a bit of size there is still plenty of water underneath.
getting crowded these days though….but with a bit of luck and good timing you still get it fairly empty…….unlike bingin and ulu’s
surfed there just after de bommings .only whit 2 locals me en a mate. it was great
First surfed in 1991, the track/trek from hell.
I remember being passenger carrying boards on back of moto, we came off the track having to stop at the roadside mechanics with a couple of spokes left in our bike wheel tidak apa apa we continued back to Kuta. Ive surfed Balangan ever since watching all the developments unfold.
I remenber Ketut and his bayak anak-anak.
Long days, long waves the mellow locals and mellow vibe no hype left only for ulu and bingin.
Surfed again this Sept, still got my waves. Nowdays it is not
uncommon to have 50+ in the water at only 3ft the Euros froth. If you surf there and do the time you will be mind blown but be patient and
respect.
Those were the days ay troy.Hangin all day with ketut and family,surf all day with a few mates then hell jaffles and massage from Made derni.Surfed the best waves of my life at the time(89-99)and i also like low tide and solid.if you sit and wait on the bigger days you will score.T.j says it all as the Newy boysare always on the program.
tj YOU ARE A BIG DUGONG
why tell stories about belungan then spend your days at the RSL.
I went to belungan yesterday and the warugs all had cold Bintang.
1980 was a long time ago my brother. davejohns
I loved reading all these stories about the days of yore. Went to Belangan for the first time last Friday, was 2-5ft and onshore most of the day…with 30+ in the water. Next morning, rolled up just after dawn, surf had built to solid 6-8ft (though some were fat coz of the mid-tide), just four of five guys in the water, absolutely perfect glassy sea and a gorgeous sunrise. Saw and rode a few of the best waves of my life, and the ‘crowd’ never topped 10 with lots of waves for everyone no worries.
Cool stuff guys! I spent 2 months in Bali in 95 and 96 and spent alot of that time surfing Balangan. I had no idea thats what happened to the old warungs. Jeano and myself stayed out there sleeping on grass seed mat when made had her warung on the beach. It was so special as a few people would come down during the day and cruise off as the sun went down.we would organize fresh fish from jimbaran and share with the local crew, (Jimmy, chilli and wing nut) were the local groms at the time and are still seen around there.It is a wave of many moods, from down right frustrating to as good as anywhere.I have surfed it as good as G-land breaking from the front of the cliff freight training to the end of the bay where pulling onto the last barrel section will test your guts or glory hormone.I went back last year and it is sad to see everything change but you cannot take the memories or the feeling being in bali gives your soul. sitting back out in front of the cliff looking out to see is timeless. and yes it did deliver again……
Hey, Justin.
I was shocked to hear about the wurungs being burnt. I stayed there quite a bit in the early 90’s. The family that owned the wurung were so kind and hospitable. Some friends and I stayed one night and the locals caught fish and crabs off the beach for the evening meal to share. I have two fond memories of Balangan. 1. Surfing it for by myself for 1 1/2 hours at dawn before another surfer turned up.
2. Racing all the sections on my 7’0″ on a sizey day and ending up in a sort of rip on the other side of the bay (near a little temple).
I remember a young local who called himself “Jimi Hendrix”, and he worked at the warung there.
I haven’t been back to Bali for 16 years due to a chronic illness, but will be surfing Balangin this August. I am SO LOOKING FORWAR TO IT, but a bit scared to see all the changes. I almost want it to stay in my memory the way it was.
Justin-Would like to see the photos of the army at Balangn if you would e-mail them please: [email protected]
Cheers
first surfed Balangan in ‘84,6’-7’and breaking the length of the beach,just the crew I went with.Met 4 guys leaving,they were surfed out after having it to themselves all morning.Next day,same 4 guys came back on a boat,we were surfed out after having it to ourselves all morning.Came back over the years,walked to Bingin when Balangan was too small,surfed Dreamland,though it wasn’t called that till the early ’90’s.Stayed with ‘Jimi Hendrix’s family during 2 months there in ’95.Feasted on tropical fish his dad,Wayan,caught on the reef and his mum and sister cooked,with a chicken sate’d on special nights.Surfed alone till someone else turned up around 9.30-10.00.Saw surveyors measuring up the beach one day and was told “Tommy” is building a resort.The day I left,while saying my goodbye’s,I couldn’t help shedding a few tears for the paradise we were about to lose.Jimi’s mum Wayan still gives me heaps for that,me,I miss the old days.
“Kapten Jappa”
Hi Wayne,
Just read your mail. No worries. I’ll dig out what picture I have. Give me a few day’s to hunt through some of my old photo boxes.
Justin
Hi all,
havn’t surfed Balagan yet in the times I’v been to Bali. I seen some short video that seemed to indicate guys jumping off the southern end rockes/reef. Is that the way to go?
Soapy
How could you not love Balangan! I was there in 95-96 with Damon as written earlier, and have been back several times since. The place has changed considerably since that first trip, only imagine what it was like in the 70’s/80’s, still a beautiful spot and great wave big or small!! The peace, tranquility and postcard perfect soroundings are etched into my mind forever, pitty that people still don’t get lost on the track, the sealed road put an end to that! Dreamland is no longer a dream, there was nothing there the first trip and now its overflowing with people. Rock on Balangan!!!
Guys PLEASE post the retro pics of Kuta and Bukit somewhere where we can all access them and enjoy the moments caught in times past.
Maybe yahoo flikr or some other pic sharing website.
If/when you do post them up please come back on this site and perhaps post a link.
I personally was fortunate enough to travel to the Phillipines in April of 1989 and happily snagged 13 days of glassy 4′ to 6′ “Majestics” with 1 Californian guy and 3 Queenslanders … yes it can happen!!
Cheers to all & thx for the nice vibe.
Nice one Steve, yeah I’ve actually got over a million photos and at least 100 hours of archived quality video footage. But can you imagine how much time that would take to sort through and then load up………. Unfortunately I’m only human, but, if I could leap a tall building in a single bound, or was stronger than a speeding locomotive………….
hay boys headn ova to score sum slabs ina week theres a nice litle lefty down from tanah lot near the cave just wundrin weather the local boys hav any dramas with blow ins surfin it thnx
hay boys we just wundrin how far to keramas and is it worth tha coin to goto lembongan for slabs this time of year cheers
from kuta
not too many slabs at Lembongan bro….. you want grunt you’ll get it in Bali way more consistently and on ANY tide.
Just readin old reports and see the Johns bros havin a dig,ya right Tate,cold Binnys better over there than the RSL,but theres no TAB.Regards to you guys Tinman
just a quick note to let ya all know that i landed a 360 reverse air the other day slats an parko where blown away [or at least they would have been if they were there] anyway i was pissed off afterwards because the barstaff cut me off and they tried telling me i broke the barstool
The only 360 reverse spin i’ve seen t.j. Pull off was the free spin on a machine at the bowlo
I did a reo the other day.
Travelling in July with some young grommets who’ve been surfing for acouple of years now. Would Balagan be the next step up from Legian for them?
Does anyone know who that bloke is !! He waz out ulu again yesty , always gets the goods especially when its ebsulutly cooking bru . Rides a mcabe round nose just like gerry . He dont say much got ink on his back . Who is he ?? Think he’s got a russian girlfriend ..
I’d maybe think about trying out Canggu or even Airport Left for some first time grommets, but make sure the conditions suit 🙂
Thanks slim, can’t wait to give them a try.
Fantastic stories and memories fellas,1st surfed Ulus in the early 80s (man i really miss the bamboo ladder)had Temples to myself and 2 other guys at Mainbreak,that was it! Just purchased a villa in Ungasan so have the Bukit Peninsular pretty much on the doorstep. Even though crowds have become somewhat out of control,still nothing better than sittin out in the lineup, Balangan,Padang,Bingin, anywhere really and shootin the breeze and slidin into a few glassy ones with like minded brothers who remember Bali way back when. Hopefully will run into some of you fellas so we can trade memories of days gone by.
Good one K-Dog sound like your living the dream mate !
hi,
the first time i went to bali, i accidentally found balangan beach. it was love at first sight. I am not a surfer, just wanted to find a low key beach where not many people around. I arrived at around 2 pm and at the time it was a low tide and i get to see a natural ‘aquarium’. it was amazing.
end of the month i will go to bali for the fourth time. On my second and third visit to balangan, it was a high tide. I look at the tide timetables and usually it just give me the monthly tide schedule but not the time of the day. Is there anyone who can help me to know when is the low tide in balangan beach on June 30th?
Had a month in 84,we used to park at the village, that was a short walk to the right to Balangan, which a fair few surfers were on to it, but walking left to bingin, past dreamland which didn,t exist, saw one other surfer besides the guys i was with had some epic sessions,don,t know what year the crowd started
first trip was 1982 partied with froggy from casablanka.. surfed kuta reef on my first thruster 3 fins had beech parties at kuta and drunkin tug of wars with 20 locals….. travel agents offered 4 weeks free motorbikes or a free custom surfboard……even ended in the fist surfing add on t.v. topex pimple cream our pay was free food and 100 $ ask richard james n.s w he could not get ahat to fit his head…..
hey dasha hah 3 months of bingin in 1984 with o to 2 guys in1987 i thought it was all over we had 6 to 10 guys ketut menda surfed in a boat with 2 or 3 balos. bali legend in the 80 s.
Surfed Balangan the first time in 98 in my first ever solo overseas surf trip.
Met a young Balanese surfer who took me to his familys village at Bingin and kind enough to take me surfing out at Ullus, Bingin, then the walk around the headland to Balangan. We had another guy too, just cant remember where he was from. Hobbled the whole way around the point, through some guys cow farm, with cut up and chaffed ankles from my surf fins. Picture that. A bodyboarder and a local surfer cruising around the Bukit, getting shown the waves, having beers with his family in the village at night. Got amazing waves at Ullus, he let me drop in on him at Bingin to grab a few barrels from the local pack. Don’t know who you were local guy, but I still remember this almost 15 years later. And I say thank you. What a way to start seeing the surfing world.
having surfed kirra all through 70’s and 80’s and got some of the best memories of my life i went to balangan first time in 2003 with magoo and have been goin evey year since.love the easy take off on the back boil and race it for 100 meters and as iam a goofy and now 55 i cant wait to go back in dec.best place in bali for sure.older locals there were only to happy to chat with and share waves
your welcome any day to share dbar
arch.
hi slim first surfed balangan in 1981 with two other surfers from central coast.my 61 yr old brain a bit foggy but don’t remember any other surfers there. first time we tried to get in by bimo but the driver turned around after about 200metres. we then had the brainwave of walking in from jimbaran bay. after about a 2 hour walk and stampeding the locals cattle we walked over the bluff near the temple and couldn’t believe our eyes 4 to 6 feet lefts spinning down the reef. surfed it nearly every day. walked over the bluff afew times were the golf course is now and didn’t see anyone out at bingins or impossibles.just got back last month and well you no how things have changed. just love those old days.
Hey Bruce, yes bro I remember… after finally finding the dirt track into Balangan and seeing that there were two other surfers in the water we were disappointed. But after walking down to the waters edge one of the guys came in (kiwi) and said they would stay out for another hour and then swap with us. At the time there was only one warung, more of a lean to shack on the whole beach. Surfing is just so popular these days Bruce, we were very very lucky 🙂
have great memories of early balangan,loved the hassle of the track,getting down there was a mission we took on everyday for weeks on end.Hanging with Ketut M. and family and jimi hendrix and crew.lots of laughs and waves.
Hi all,
I was just hoping for some advice for my better half. Can you rent surfboards at Balangan beach? Are they decent ones or just crappy learners boards? He is tryna to avoid having to take his own due to having to drag it around on the rest of the trip where there is no surfing. Thanks! x
worked in Bali at Nusa Dua 2004,5 and 6, Had balangan to myself every now and then, decided to move back and get a job as an English Teacher. Place still rocks, Good bye Australia!
I read all these great comments. I surfed Ulu with my bud Gorillaman for the first time in 1984. On a return trip sometime in the 90’s (can’t remember the year), one of the local kids Made who was now grown up with a baby on her hip remembered us, after I jogged her memory (I remembered her first). I remember them being so curious about us Americans. As not too many had made the trip at that time. Love the Bali people.
Steve Says
Went to Bali 1974 after I saw surf movie Morning of the Earth.Stayed at a place called Igung Inn. In Kuta.
Most amazing place then. Met a surf from Sydney and we surfed everyday day for a month. After hitching a lift to somewhere then walked along the cliff to Ulu. Surf was 6 to 8 perfect. Surfed around the corner which is now Impossiblies then surfed what is now Balangan.went back to Bali 1976 surfed east coast and a fisherman took us to Keramas great then took us to Lembongan surfed Lacerations for two days. Had to leave fisherman returning to mainland long paddle otherwise. The memories. 64 now still surfing. Margret River WA still pumping but great surfs in Indonesia. Still travelling to Indonesia surfing. Metawai islands and Maldives something else. Keep looking there are surf spots out there.
good onya Steve happy days mate !!!
Hi Slim
Great site, loving all the info. Could you please tell me what waves are like at Balangan early August? I know it will be super crowded so just wondering about size, consistency etc.
Thanks.
Paul
It’s always nice down at Balangan beach, expect to ride a lot of close out waves and a few long perfect ones, but really it all depends on the swell systems that will be hitting Bali at the time when your down there I guess 🙂
With Wayan Suwenda (RIP), Rob Brandenburg (RIP), Kev Gordon, and a Newcastle crew of Peter, Steve, Dick and Gary, I first surfed Balangan in May-June of 1976. We initially stumbled on it, having ridden bikes down that pot-holed road to the village and walking for hours across the fields. We were looking for Padang Padang, which had been revealed to the surfing world a year or so earlier. In those days there were no other surfers there, and the beautiful coral fringed beach and shall lagoon were usually deserted. There was a small temple midway along the beach, surrounded by frangipani trees. We were told that the beach was sacred and would remain pristine, which it did for many years, but no longer.
I guess we were among the first to surf there, although noting Steve Perrie’s comments above. Each trip we took enough food and water to last several days, and lived in the large cave in the southern corner of the beach, adjacent to the headland where the wave first breaks. I guess the cave must have been eroded out during a previous high sea stand. We realized, years later, that it would be a death trap in a large tsunami, but fortunately none arrived while we were there.
On one overnight stay in that cave we heard rustlings in the nearby bushes. Thinking little of it, we went surfing the next day, while Gary filmed from the headland. Halfway through the surf, he started yelling and ran off, chasing locals who had crept in and hidden in those bushes the night before, and later emerged to grab our bags. They were running off but quick-thinking Gary shouted ‘Polici Polici’ and they dropped all bags except one, with the remains of our food. So thankfully we kept our passports and other possessions. Gary’s film of those waves was terrific, although I only ever saw it the one time, on a visit to Newcastle.
In later years, we’d hire a motorized jukung from Kuta and surf the various breaks along the Bukit, depending on swell and tide, usually ending up at Ulus.
Thanks for the surf story Lyndon stoked bro, it was a long time after this that a friend (Geoff Crane) took me down to Balangan by car, it was a maze of dirt tracks still and still un developed and hard to find. When we finally got a glimpse of the ocean Geoff was bummed to find 2 other surfers in the water. There was one little “lean too” make shift warung by this time selling banana jaffles and warm coke and fanta. I’d be stoked and I’m sure many other would be also to hear more of your surfing adventures in Indonesia if you get time.
Thanks again Bro
Cheers Slim, glad you enjoyed the Balangan yarn. I have a few others that I’ll be glad to share with you and your readers. I have been very fortunate to visit Bali and other parts of Indonesia many times over the years, initially chasing waves and later as part of my work as a coral reef ecologist. With a team from various Indonesian government agencies and the international non-government organization Conservation International I surveyed Bali’s reefs a few years ago. On the down-side, as is well known today, we didn’t have a single dive without some form of pollution, usually plastic, tangled on corals, even down south of Nusa Dua. On the up side, there are many good people focused on trying to fix this, and I remain confident of positive change, although it’ll be a long slog. Also on the up side, we discovered a previously unknown coral species, and named it Euphyllia baliensis in honour of its home.