Guest Report from Pak Wayan
River mouth was cut off from the ocean early today with a reef exposing 0.2 m low tide around dawn!
The wind was very light with a hint of North in it which made the ocean glisten when a wave broke.
The skies were mostly blue with the odd fluffy low slung white clouds hanging about to offer some shade as they slowly moved by.
The swell had enough oomph in it to peak up on the outer bank on the low tide, the right-hander was holding its shape best with the left fattening up in the middle before rising up again on the inside bank as it does. Even the right hander novelty wave looked good, so good in fact that three groms were giving it a good go on their four foot nothing boards!
You could definitely say it was on!
One set in particular came through larger than all else and I’d consider it a nice double overhead one that caught everyone on the main peak and gave them a nice rinse cycle experience, not one person got away clean on it and it felt oddly satisfying to accept a nice solid underwater drenching.
There was not a big crew, guy’s had opportunities to get a good one if you had the position.
Every option was being used so I guess it spread people out some but overall it was a good vibe in the water.
Came to mid morning, not yet high tide which actually cleaned up the waves some more and some menacing clouds appeared!
At first it was slightly textured and then in less than 10 minutes it totally changed the completion of the ocean.
In only 15 minutes the ocean had now turned into a washing machine!!
Winds up inshore and small lumps hitting you in the face and shoulders as you paddled out to sea.
A dramatic change for the worst which saw 90% of the crew exit the water leaving only a handful of late starters to battle the conditions and the lumpy waves.
The swell still has some power to it but it’s dropped off from say about a four star to a one star out of five scenario.
It drove me out of the water as well, I was left feeling unsatisfied and a bit defeated by the change in the conditions.
Some young guys remained but they were practicing aerial type surfing which is way beyond me these days.
If you started earlier and weren’t waiting for the tide to rush in I’m sure you would’ve been much more satisfied.
There’s a chance of a late glass off session which I’m sure many will be checking on throughout the day.
Me, I think I’ll wait for the morning session but not wait for the tide like today…
Cheers.
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